Bright and airy Tart Village in Schuylerville serves delicious cafe food – The Daily Gazette


SCHUYLERVILLE — The Village Tart, a delicious bakery and café in a white-painted brick house on Broad Street, is the world as Cynthia DeYoung thinks it should be: a comforting place to feel happy — and to eat deliciously .

The food is as good as the place is charming. That’s a high bar, as you’ll see.

DeYoung bought the building years ago when it needed a lot of work. But then it was clear to her that this would be where she would open her business.

She stripped the walls down to brick, ripped out the ceiling and turned the floor into an apartment, where she lives with her son and two cats.

The decor is uplifting and airy; even a chandelier pops unassumingly in this room, with its shelves of books and games, a (well-equipped) antique wooden child’s kitchen by the glass bakery display case, and whitewashed wooden tables.

The space has been divided into several dining areas with tables in the windows, plush leather furniture around a built-in fireplace, and a breakfast bar along one wall.

The high ceiling and white walls — aside from a multicolored wall mural of saturated colors — give it an airy and spacious feel.

I can’t think of a nicer place to be on a sunny afternoon than at a table here by the open window, the sheer white curtains fluttering in a gentle breeze.

You will take pictures in this lovely cafe, for which I thank you. I was once the only one in the room taking pictures of my food; now I don’t even have to try to be discreet.

Choose from candy-filled cookie jars or delicious homemade cookies. Glass cake stands display perfect baked goods.

The Village Tart offers a breakfast and lunch menu available all day, from early morning until late afternoon. There are locally roasted coffees, specialty teas and infusions, like matcha tea ($4).

It’s also a bakery, so you’d expect homemade English muffins ($3.95), but maybe not fresh popovers made with Gruyere cheese in the batter, especially those filled with nut butter or jam and dried fruits and seeds. It’s the Birdfeeder ($9). How else could you call it?

Popovers can be stuffed with bacon and eggs ($10) for breakfast, or choose a smoked salmon bagel ($13).

If you want lunch, try the creamy house garlic soup ($7) or the chicken curry salad with raisins, apples and cashews on fresh bread.

There’s also smoked trout on rye bread wedges with creamy scrambled eggs, crème fraiche, capers and horseradish ($17).

The menu relies on these popovers, which resemble a large Russet potato in size and appearance, and for good reason: they are served freshly cooked and are truly exceptional.

We settled in with our drinks, Boylan’s black cherry soda poured over ice for me and periwinkle matcha tea ($4) for Sheryl.

Thank God I have friends who go out into the world; she told me about her blue drink. It’s tea made with butterfly pea flower petals, which may or may not benefit your brain and offer a myriad of other health benefits, but it’s certainly a pretty color. The Village Tart adds cinnamon and raw honey.

“I love it,” Sheryl said of the Eye-Opener ($10.50), a freshly baked popover with bacon and thick egg. Then, “It’s really delicious.”

It was a feast for the eyes, the popover split with strips of eggs and bacon resting on baby spinach, topped with sriracha aioli.

She handed over a piece of popover. “You can taste the cheese in there,” she said. I agreed and wished I had ordered one: it was a few minutes out of the oven and hot, the outside crispy and the middle airy still moist.

I’d like to say we shared the sweet and spicy bacon ($9), but I ate most of it.

Four thick, thick strips of bacon, generously streaked with grease, are cooked over high heat with brown sugar, a touch of cayenne pepper, crushed red pepper and topped with chopped walnuts.

On the first bite, I bit into some brown sugar and found it to be way too sweet. Then the pepper kicked in. The sugar burned a little on the underside, adding a note of complex bitterness.

DeYoung said the bacon used by the cafe is top quality. “I care about the bacon,” she said, and it’s clear she cares about the taste of everything.

The Village Tart makes its quiches crustless, so they’re gluten-free, and who’s missing the crust? I had the broccoli, tomato and mozzarella quiche ($13) that came with a side of greens.

Both small quiches were tasty and expertly made – unlike mine, in which the fillings go to the bottom. I admired the tender exterior and the toppings, which had distinct flavors, including the soft mozzarella.

Didn’t see the dressing room at first on the greens, but that was part of its shine.

There was garlic in the perfectly balanced dressing, just the right amount. She made the choice to keep the dressing room ephemeral, discreet; it was barely there but worth finding.

The Village Tart gets points for charming, mismatched china, another touch that makes the cafe welcoming.

We ended up bringing home some enchanting desserts, a buttercream filled butter shortbread cookie and a vanilla rose buttercream cupcake. And for Miss Baylee, Sheryl’s dog, a cat-shaped dog biscuit. Baylee kicked him.

The bill for our very enjoyable lunch was $56.75 before tip.

“That place should be in Troy,” Sheryl observed; it would fit perfectly with independent businesses in the trendy city.

DeYoung has heard it before, but no. Schuylerville moved away from James Howard Kunstler’s 1990 apocalyptic essay for The New York Times Magazine.

The many empty storefronts he described in this “sad” city are filling up. The place isn’t bustling, but something is creeping in.

Village Tart is a bright spot in Schuylerville, but it’s not the only one.

And it would be a bright spot anywhere.

Go enjoy a meal at Village Tart, where someone really cares about the taste of bacon.

Caroline Lee is a freelance writer living in Troy. Join her at [email protected]

The village pie

WHERE: 63 Broad Street, Schuylerville; (518) 507-6476

WHEN: 6 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday, Thursday and Friday; 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday; 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday; closed on Tuesdays

HOW MUCH: $56.75

MORE INFO: Credit cards: Mastercard, Visa, American Express, Discover; also Apple Pay. Street parking. Not ADA Compliant; a small step to the front door.

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Categories: Food, Life and Arts


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