Sisu (explained on the menu as a Finnish term meaning “to go against the odds with courage and bravery”) replaced Cafe Red Point at Lincoln Center last May, but essentially exists as a close replica of it (at the menu), with an additional mini-shop of handicrafts and locally made artisan products arranged in the corner of the dining room (hence the “mercantile” part of its name). It is operated by neighboring owners of Building Three Coffee, who purchased Red Point and its proceeds from former owner/founder Dan Fuhr. Sisu’s kitchen remains completely gluten-free and lists 98% organic produce (for fair prices in that spirit). Sisu’s first social media posts invited guests to come back for old favorites (i.e. embracing Red Point’s health food focus) and a few new items, like a sandwich waffle born from the popular paleo waffle (which remains on the list). I just came out of a training session nearby and attracted to the Mighty egg bowl, which is just slightly modified from its previous incarnation. It’s now a generous bed of quinoa topped with sautéed spinach, halved grape tomatoes, pickled pink onions, a fried egg and chewy chunks of grilled steak – I squirt some sriracha on the mine from a small condiment area near the order counter. Everything tastes fresh and bright, with the tomato and onions adding enough acidity to complement the steak – well-cooked medium and with a mostly lean bite – and the egg filling, making these three good sources of protein when you’re eating. count the quinoa. To pair, I get the Gron Smoothie (formerly called Green Machine, if that was your drink), which mixes kale and spinach with pineapple, ginger and lime in a base of coconut water, with a touch of honey local origin. It’s tangy from the ginger and slightly biting from the lime, but well balanced between the vegetal elements and the tropical sweetness – definitely refreshing.